This season at Copenhagen Fashion Week saw Astrid Andersen debut her first dedicated womenswear show, having built up her menswear collections since graduating from the Royal College of Arts in 2010. London-based but Danish-born, it seemed only right that Andersen chose Copenhagen as the city to first showcase womenswear and it was a homecoming well received; the room was packed and the atmosphere electric, with Andersen’s cult following in full attendance.
The Astrid Andersen AW17 womenswear collection followed in the same vein as the men’s, which was presented at London Fashion Week Men’s last month. In doing so, the designer showed her stance on gender: equal treatment, equal strength, equal style. The collection was dark and heavy, with rich velvet fabrics in dark oxblood and navy, found in oversized boiler suits worn slightly off the shoulder, high-waisted wide legged trousers and corduroy jackets finished off with black quilting.
There was a distinctive ’90s vibe to the whole collection, with models wearing back-to-front flat caps – created in partnership with New Era and coming complete with ‘Astrid Andersen’ branding. There were long bomber jackets too, worn over sweatshirt dresses, baggy trousers worn gathered on top of white trainers, and a leopard print tracksuit that somehow managed to look cool. A strong first collection from Andersen, and long may it continue.
Words by Angharad Jones. Images courtesy of Astrid Andersen