Paris Fashion Week SS19 brought many first’s. From Virgil Abloh’s first collection at the helm of Louis Vuitton to Dior’s first collaboration with name to know Matthew M Williams of ALYX, it is already clear SS19 welcomes a new fleet of masterminds with which traditional houses must keep up. John Galliano perfectly summed up what is expected of new season collections in his SS19 show’s accompanying podcast entitled ‘The Memory Of… With John Galliano’.
Galliano used the platform to describe the ‘Artisanal’ theme of his SS19 show and the importance of defining a new direction for Maison Margiela Menswear, he added that the ready-to-wear collection would expand upon these key silhouettes to be shown in the Women’s show in July.
The changing landscape of Menswear, and the new energy that’s coming in at different houses.
Where Maison Margiela is the avant-garde Parisian fashion house with deconstruction and artisanal design at its core, for the past four years Galliano has been graviatating towards the future of the fashion house. Underpinned by bold tailoring, for SS19 Galliano made considerable reference to the ‘bias cut’ as his key focus for the collection. Creating a unique effect on the fabric, the bias cut adds more flexibility and stretch to the garment, allowing it to cling more noticeably to the body and drape more elegantly as a result.
His soothing British drawl talks the listener through his use of satin back crepe and how each fabric has a different reaction to form, the designer uses this new medium to create a relationship with the viewer through his passionate and in depth description of the trials and tribulations that come with bias cut and different fabrics.
Naming his influences over a rapid drum beat, including Madeleine Vionnet and his very own interns, the designer has no fear in describing every feeling as he talks through his design process in a mere 12 and a half minutes.
Baste it! Never sew it… leave it basted until 24 hours before and then sew… Fun.
In reference to “leaving the after party” Galliano puts significant focus on the influence of haste, defining the heroic presence of the cape like form when throwing a coat over your shoulders — something that certainly honours the tradition of Martin Margiela. With flashbacks to his years in haute couture at Dior and most importantly the bias cutting he brought to the forefront of fashion in the ’90s, he’s now remastered this art for the modern Margiela man.
From kimono jumpsuits to a green suit with diagonal checks meeting at the back seam of the jacket in a perfect grid, the collection referenced all the feats of Galliano’s career. Underpinned with a sheer turtleneck featuring gold crystal beading and hemmed in ostrich feathers, all accessoried with gilded Western boots, Maison Margiela reconstructs the future.
Shop Maison Margiela SS18 at Coggles here.
Words by Alexandra Neilson-Clark