Dean and Dan Caten take on SS19 with as much humour, artistry and fun as every season. With a khaki heavy colour palette, straps and textures took precedence alongside lots of layers at DSQUARED2. From rouching and billowing to bold angled tailoring, and anchored to the runway with those iconic heels, sci-fi meets combat warrior for SS19. An overarching military theme was accentuated with lingerie textures and retro sports inspired colourways, zipper and patchwork inserts accompanied by lightweight bustier vests and corset detailing added layers of delicacy to a bold and brutal collection with juxtaposing elements of silk and nylon, mesh and tape (and of course leather) as key materials across both men’s and womenswear.
At Church’s for SS19 the brand’s classic ‘Shannon’ style takes the form of a Monk Shoe this time in ink blue leather, accented with a silver side buckle fastening. The iconic cobbler revisited its ‘Shanghai’ shoe for another season, adding canvas panels as well as a boot version in two tone aged leather. The Church’s signature ‘Pembrey’ penny loafer allowed the whole collection to nod towards the summer sun in super soft suede and retro multi-colourways.
With artificial intelligence and sci-fi references throughout, Marcelo Burlon’s ‘County of Milan’ SS19 collection took reference from retro movie “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” for its first coed collection, a huge step for the brand. With his signature Patagonian symbol at the forefront this season Burlon developed a much richer trend led collection including a wave of neon colours, acid wash and technical fabrications. Transparent windbreakers and cycle shorts brought rave culture references accompanied by a multitude of pattern and colour integrated across oversized denim and hoodies. Frames from Spielberg’s cult film “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” were boldly branded on t-shirts and all-over sequin tops.
Where monochrome, sportswear and tailoring meet has always been with Neil Barrett, however this season he tried injected a sense of something new. Bright coloured florals, stripes and gingham sound as though they would be out of place here, but Neil Barrett’s iconic precision dissects the collection to once again stage something utterly wonderful. Military style prevailed with flight jackets in a mix of weighty retro leather and highly technical fabrics, rooted with Barrett’s own take on the sock and chunky style sneaker trends. With such logo-heavy competitors, Neil Barrett’s SS19 collection once again shows his highly intricate design speaks for itself.
Words by Alexandra Neilson-Clark