Paul Smith’s AW16 men’s collection took us back to where it all began; his first Mayfair shop in the ‘70s, with shapes, colours and prints all inspired by the store and the era. For his women’s collection, Sir Paul took inspiration from that tiny shop once again, with paisley prints embroidered on loose navy shirts, mannish coats and tied-at-the-waist knee-length dresses. One of his collections from ’82 was also referenced in the use of a bitten apple motif, found in jewellery, and stitched on to tunics and loosely tailored trousers.
Typically of Paul Smith, navy was a staple colour in the collection, offset with dusky pink, tangerine orange, grey, and simple – but strong – black pieces. The best looks of the collection – and one that seems to be lacking in womenswear – were the two-piece suits. Opening with a navy double-breasted blazer with matching trousers, a bold orange stripe right down the side, the show moved on to a cropped orange trouser worn with accompanying blazer and loafers, ‘70s-inspired navy suits and a grey herringbone piece perfect for office-to-bar.
This was smart, but in a very nonchalant ‘oh-I-wear-this-kind-of-thing-every-day-but-always-look-great’ way and it’s a look we look forward to emulating next season.
Words by Angharad Jones. Images property of Vogue.