It was only a matter of time before the political movements in 2016 that shook the world manifested itself in fashion. This season it was Matthew Miller – in all his anti-establishment tendencies – who took on this responsibility, showcasing an Autumn/Winter ’17 collection designed for ‘protecting oneself in the post truth era’.
Miller created a series of uniforms consisting mainly of black deconstructed tailoring layered effortlessly; uniforms for the disenchanted, disenfranchised and disengaged. Calling it ‘project fear’, this was clothing for the young generation living in an uneasy political world that has become the result of the choices made by the generation that came before it.
There were military references throughout – khaki backpacks and black bomber jackets – but with painted faces on the models and ceremonial scarves (designed and printed in collaboration with Design Lab – Yuichi Nakamura) draped over clothing, it had more of a rebel attitude to it rather than a conventional army.
Miller continued with SS17’s trends of deconstructed shirting, this time worn on top of each other – one sleeve on, one sleeve off – building on that idea of clothing as personal security. Colour-wise it was all black, granite, white and rust (a colour popping up again and again for AW17), evoking a sense of going into battle.
Words and images by Angharad Jones