London Fashion Week Men’s: Matthew Miller AW17

matthew miller aw17 khaki straps

It was only a matter of time before the political movements in 2016 that shook the world manifested itself in fashion. This season it was Matthew Miller – in all his anti-establishment tendencies – who took on this responsibility, showcasing an Autumn/Winter ’17 collection designed for ‘protecting oneself in the post truth era’.

matthew miller aw17 suit

Miller created a series of uniforms consisting mainly of black deconstructed tailoring layered effortlessly; uniforms for the disenchanted, disenfranchised and disengaged. Calling it ‘project fear’, this was clothing for the young generation living in an uneasy political world that has become the result of the choices made by the generation that came before it.

matthew miller aw17 black bomber jacket

There were military references throughout – khaki backpacks and black bomber jackets – but with painted faces on the models and ceremonial scarves (designed and printed in collaboration with Design Lab – Yuichi Nakamura) draped over clothing, it had more of a rebel attitude to it rather than a conventional army.

matthew miller aw17 scarf

Miller continued with SS17’s trends of deconstructed shirting, this time worn on top of each other – one sleeve on, one sleeve off – building on that idea of clothing as personal security. Colour-wise it was all black, granite, white and rust (a colour popping up again and again for AW17), evoking a sense of going into battle.

matthew miller aw17 shirting

Words and images by Angharad Jones

Sarah Atkinson

Sarah Atkinson

Writer and expert