Paris Fashion Week Men’s may still be in the midst of its SS18 shows but that doesn’t mean it isn’t short of a few already-established highlights. There was Rick Owens and his runway of elevated scaffolding and his very Rick Owens take on utilitarian style, Demna Gvasalia’s version of dad fashion for Balenciaga, and the school boy meets ‘80s corporate dressing at Dries Van Noten. For now, discover the best of the shows from Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS18, and check back for daily updates.
The unlikely inspiration for the Lemaire SS18 collection came from German brands Kraftwerk and La Düsseldorf – all early ‘80s loose shirting tucked into high-waisted double-pleat trousers, relaxed trench coats and sneaker boots alongside an offering of cut-out leather sandals. True to Lemaire form, the colour palette was minimal and pared-back with touches of bright red and rust breaking up a sea of whites, blacks, navy and olive tones.
The AMI SS18 show was a tribute to Parisian summer time; the runway a bed of pink sand that was a nod to the temporary Paris Plage; the clothes a nod to the tourist that descends on the city. Although this wasn’t your average tourist, this was the AMI tourist. There were bold striped diner shirts worn with cropped gingham trousers or PVC shorts (complete with pulled-up white socks), Hawaiian shirts worn with a mac and socks-and-sandals combo, and a new take on double denim with a short-and-jacket two piece. Shop AMI on Coggles >>
Pierre Mahéo described his Officine Générale SS18 collection as “la belle normalité” – and beautiful normality it truly was. Opting to show women’s as well as menswear, Mahéo’s collection was the ultimate in chic French city-meets-beach wear with relaxed suits, shirting and a colour palette of crisp white, navy, black, khaki and a smattering of tonal pink shades. These were pieces that spoke of timeless style; the only noticeable ‘trends’ being the Rolling Stones-inspired Emotional Rescue logo t-shirts and low-slung belts hanging loose – as they have been in most collections this season. Officine Générale menswear is coming soon to Coggles – sign up to our newsletter to be one of the first to shop the collection.
Spring/Summer ’18 may well be the season of the Hawaiian shirt comeback. We saw it at AMI, and it was back with a vengeance at Paul Smith too – so much so that the print went beyond the classic shirt and transferred itself onto trousers, boots and jackets, to ties, holdalls and (you guessed it) low-slung belts. The fish made an appearance in print from as well (just like it did at John Smedley), on ties and espadrilles for men, and t-shirts and cross body bags for women. As for the rest of the collection, that ‘80s influence was found in loose suiting (made up of high-waisted trousers and padded shouldered blazers, of course) and big boxy bomber jackets, while colours ranged across the bright end of the spectrum.
Words by Angharad Jones