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FASHION

SS18 Fashion: The Names to Know

There’s nothing quite like the feel of the sun on your face, bag swinging off your shoulder and sandals hitting the warm tarmac, a new dress, perfect for the warmer months, brushing your thighs. To this day, so many years after that first purchase, there’s still something exciting about a new summer buy, that item that sits in your wardrobe waiting for that perfect summer’s day.

The number of brands bringing new, innovative styles to the market is endless. From bold, bright prints to architectural silhouettes, Spring/Summer 18 has already brought us a plethora of interesting brands; new names as well as old favourites.

Rejina Pyo

Only half a decade old, Rejina Pyo’s eponymous brand has garnered notoriety within the fashion set. A former assistant to Roksanda Ilincic, Pyo has a yearning for deconstructed details and something she calls “overwhelming” shapes. These styles are still easy to live in and worn with ease; they only accentuate the natural form of the woman.

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“I had a baby six months ago, and that really made me think about all different shapes of women, and their roles. My role—a mother—is one that I didn’t have before and this is like a celebration.” She said speaking of her SS18 collection.  “Nothing political or particularly feminist, just a celebration. I want to make clothes that people can wear every day and still feel special.”

With a cast of mothers and artists, Rejina Pyo’s first runway collection was a celebration of womanhood. Ease and simplicity were at the forefront of the collection with uncomplicated separates and effortless dresses.

The Volon

‘La volonté de tous’ a phrase first uttered by French philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau inspires The Volon. Written during the 1789 French Revolution, the Declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen, the philosopher stated that will of all, and the wants of the individual must be expressed, that is the ideology behind The Volon.

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Creating statement bags in a rainbow of colours, the brand champions the expression of individuality. With a past deep rooted in furniture design, The Volon approaches each new style with architectural intellect, forming new structured shapes favoured by the likes of Olivia Palermo, Leandra Medine and Giorgia Tordini.

Ganni

Danish fashion house Ganni is above all known for its statement print stories; designs that cover the entire collection and become synonymous with the brand that season. Famed for these bold, bright prints that aren’t overly complicated, Ganni somehow always manages to get it right.

If you haven’t heard of Ganni – where have you been? – you will have seen it on Instagram. Every ‘it’ girl from London to Copenhagen will own a Ganni tee. From the famed ‘Cherrybomb’ to this season’s banana style, these iconic basics are the perfect outlet for your first meeting with Ganni.

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With a Spring/Summer 18 collection entitled ‘Global Citizen’, designer Ditte Reffstrup chose to use her social influence to shed light on the subject of diversity and freedom of movement. “In this moment of closed borders, it’s important to think about new ways of living and working together, of overcoming our cultural differences. The Global Citizen represents the best of everywhere.”

Challenging prejudices, Ganni sent a diverse selection of models down the Copenhagen in 90s inspired looks. As per, the colour palette was bright, a true mash up of prints - it was clear to see that this collection had a collaborative ethos. Working with creatives from all over the world, Reffstrup created a look for the independent woman; she who has a positive outlook on life, loves to travel but above all is engaged with the cultural issues at hand.

RIXO

The brainchild of best friends Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey, RIXO brings retro-inspired dresses with contemporary prints. Meeting at the London College of Fashion, the pair quickly gravitated towards each other thanks to their love of all things vintage. Reworking 70s designs, the designers vowed to never mass-produce. Each RIXO dress is hand painted by Orlagh and Henrietta themselves from their London hub.

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In the beginning, the pair created a 100% silk ‘Virtues of Rosemary collection’. Worn by everyone from bloggers to red-carpet goers, the collection soon sold out and the iconic ‘Camellia’ dress tasted its first shot of fame. Since that first collection, the brand has only continued to grow with a bohemian aesthetic that transcends the fashion cycle. Teaching us that dressing up isn’t just for night-time and bringing back that ‘part dress’ feel for the everyday, Rixo is a brand to add to your radar.

Danse Lente

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Danse Lenteor ‘Slow Dance’ is the British Label creating the anti-It-bag.  Something of a chameleon brand, Danse Lente does not and is not dictated by trends, instead the effortlessly elegant styles take their place and emphasise any look. With an architectural influence, bags are structured with gravity defying shapes, interlocking handles and a graceful ease.

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Pushing back against the pressure of mass production and the desire for new deliveries at an even faster clip, the brand boasts a sustainable supply chain filled with skilled craftsmen, tanners and metalsmiths. Very much an urban brand, born and working out of London, founder and designer Youngwon Kim delves into the cultural richness of the capital for her inspiration.

Isabel Marant

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Known for bringing Bohemian to the people, cult brand Isabel Marant does Spring/Summer like no other. Championing a laid-back Parisian aesthetic with romantically nuanced tendencies, the designers offers clothes that she herself would wear. Marant tries all her collection before it leaves her studio, ensuring that each piece is ready to be ‘lived in’.

With clean lines of thick linen, chambray shirts and organic cotton miniskirts, Marant cited just two references for the collection: British lace and sportswear. Ready to be worn everywhere from the disco to the beach, each item was ready to be re-interpreted to suit its wearer’s needs.

Solace London

A distinctly design-heavy collection defined by deep cuts, accordion pleats and graphic structures, Solace London lets the silhouette speak for itself. An aesthetic that communicates class, minimalism and colour blocking, the brand’s laid back aesthetic is that of uncomplicated femininity.

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Using lightweight textured woven crepe and knitted cloth, the designs are laser cut to create that futuristic finish the brand is known for. Fun, uncomplicated yet ultimately dynamic, Solace doesn’t do decoration for the sake of it. Garments are simple, without embellishments or ornaments, just good quality, luxurious dresses and separates.

Craftsmanship and a signature look of sophistication is at the heart of every design, meaning that with Solace London, you gain evergreen silhouettes, in wearable colours, and modern fittings from every style.

Zimmermann

One glance is all that you need to recognise Zimmermann. The brand started life on the street markets of Paddington, Australia. It was there that designer Nicky saw how real women responded to her styles and refined her aesthetic. With a two-page editorial in Vogue, orders from all over Australia began flooding in and marketing-savvy sister Simone joined the force.

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With a distinctly bohemian edge, it’s clear to see that Zimmermann’s designs favour a warmer clime and for SS18 the brand went back to its roots with a very ‘personal’ collection. Revisiting Australia’s Gold Coast, Nicky wanted to capture the beauty and romanticism of Australia’s Glitter Strip. Looking back through her parents’ honeymoon photos as well as beachside snaps taken in the 60s and 70s, the inspiration was clear: flower-power chicks and bohemian surfer babes.

As ever with Zimmermann, prints were galore, this time with an edgier vibe. Florals, mismatched, paired with lace and wrapped off the shoulder and around the body in a scarf-like manner. Crisp white linen took the form of mini dresses, spaghetti strap midis and structured shirts and crocheted dresses felt fresh and well-balanced within the collection.

Sarah Atkinson
Sarah Atkinson Writer and expert

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