An eerie atmosphere overtook the Grand Palais in Paris this morning. Maison Margiela’s Autumn/Winter 18 collection was out of this world, literally. With a distinctly spatial atmosphere – or should we say exosphere – models beat down the runway to a warped, futuristic rhythm. You’d be forgiven for thinking nostalgically back to classic X-Files episodes or even to more recent sci-fi thrillers such as The Martian – Margiela of course takes heavy inspiration from popular culture.
Outerwear was the main focus. A staple that Margiela does so well, the classic all-weather waterproof was reimagined. Heavily oversized coats dwarfed models, adding only to the U.F.O theme. In bright blue and shocking violet shades, it will be hard to miss a Margiela girl next winter. Sweeping trenches in classic camels and browns were updated with strong blocks of neon – it was hi-vis heaven! It’s a fact, the next snow will be impossible to tackle without a Margiela balaclava and our lips will turn as positively blue as the shades worn by the house’s models if we don’t get one now. Covering the majority of the head, neck and face, the knit accessory sported with wide brimmed PVC hoods resembled something of a helmet and when paired with the unmissable PVC overcoat, looked more like a space suit. Perfect, when matched with the heavy moon boots worn with every look.
As always, accessories were the cherry on top of the cake: chain belts, cage-like body frames and oversized clutch bags created from waterproof, mattressed polyester. Bags the size of sleeves and worn up the arm in the style of a medieval gauntlet brought something new in the wake of accessories and the old-school, leather framed, camping backpack complete with bed roll gave the sense of a expedition.
A la Margiela classique, deconstruction was at the forefront of every look. Cable knits ripped and refashioned with oversized blazers, unused sleeves and slip dresses worn over those enlarged windbreakers. Fastenings, stitching and fabrications were very much features of the garments and prominent in the styling.
A final thought? Luxury streetwear will come into a league of its own with Maison Margiela’s AW18 collection – now where can we get that balaclava.
Words by Georgia Leitch