London Fashion Week AW17 opened up for us with Eudon Choi, the Korean designer with a penchant for tailoring and a keen eye for detail. Having started off as a menswear designer, Choi looked back to the beginning of his roots to create a utilitarian collection with just the right dose of femininity.
The inspiration for Eudon Choi AW17 was Austrian/Czech architect Adolf Loos (1870-1933), whose views on and preference for minimalism made him a pioneer of the modernist movement. This was a man who believed creating something just for the sake of ornamental purposes was a crime, and that this way of thinking should become obsolete. Instead, Loos was all about the stark exteriors in natural materials – and this is what Choi translated into fashion this season.
Layering was a style feature throughout, with chunky knits worn over tailored shirts and wide cuff trousers, with an oversized overcoat tying the look together; knitted capes over shirt dresses and wide leg trousers; and chunky quilted parkas worn hanging off the models, over those staple loose fitting trousers and thick rib knit jumpers.
As for colours, there was the classic soft grey, black and white, with the addition of khaki and a bright orange found in loose fitting, wide lapelled jackets, worn over blue and white striped shirts.
The aforementioned femininity was found in the detail: large gold buttons running down the spine of a thick, otherwise-masculine woollen coat; satin dresses in navy and olive green; and structured dresses in pale pink, contrasted with a navy split.
Words and images by Angharad Jones