New York Fashion Week is drawing to a close for another season, but not without making a real mark on the industry. First we had Tom Ford and Kanye West opening up proceedings in a less-than-conventional way; the former opting to show his AW16 collection – able to buy straight from the show – rather than SS17, while the latter shipped the fashion set out of the city to present Yeezy Season 4 (complete with show merchandise), receiving slating reviews for leaving his models stood out in the heat (causing a few to pass out), plastic shoes that broke on the runway and a collection that wasn’t much different than those that came before them.
Fashion, as ever, moved on from that and we welcomed in the new from the rest of New York’s designers; here are five of the best collections to come out of NYFW SS17.
For years, DKNY epitomised that urban New York style but it was all starting to get tired – until Public School’s Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow took over. They’ve injected a new sense of cool into the brand, making it one to contend with – and this was seen yet again in DKNY’s SS17 collection. Futuristic knitwear met unstructured tailoring to speak to that new consumer who wants new shapes, raw hems and a non-ironic answer to the anorak. Shop the DKNY collection here.
During the AW16 shows, Dutch designer Sander Lak debuted the first collection of his label, Sies Marjan, and it’s safe to say that it became the new darling of the fashion industry. It’s the label that’s stuck out during this season’s spectacle of street style – and the SS17 collection will no doubt have the same response. Draped, floaty feminine styles were given an edge with too-long sleeves, the off-the-shoulder trend was updated in softer, chicer shapes and tangerine became the stand-out colour.
Lacoste is a brand renowned for its French prepster aesthetic but this season Felipe Oliveira Baptista gave it a cooler, looser, more relaxed and fashion-forward edge. Bathrobes were found in the collection, as were wrap-around dresses draping at the feet and beach-ready playsuits. Sportswear still played a key part but this time it was geared towards the street rather than the country club; hoods came on everything from polo shirts to tennis dresses, sweat pants were worn high at the waist and lightweight knits were fastened with zip pulls. Shop the Lacoste women’s collection here and men’s collection here.
The main event of the Alexander Wang SS17 show was the unveiling of his collaboration with Adidas Originals right at the end, but that doesn’t mean the designer’s eponymous collection was overshadowed. Alexander Wang is very much a New York city brand but this season, Wang tapped into his California roots too – and it worked. He paired the deconstructed shirting of the city with beach-ready moccasins and lace-trimmed boardshorts, whereas bikini-type tops made an appearance under oversized bleached denim jackets and raw-hemmed trench coats. Shop the Alexander Wang women’s collection here and men’s collection here.
Tibi knows what it does well and sticks to it: easy, relaxed tailoring for the busy woman who likes to look good without having to think too much about it. Amy Smilovic stuck to this aesthetic for SS17, with loose-fitting trousers and matching jackets, a new take on the bell sleeve and relaxed corsetry making up the best pieces. Shop the Tibi collection on Coggles here.
Words by Angharad Jones