Fashion

Five Things We’re Taking Away from Fashion Month AW21

After over a year filled with restrictions, uncertainty and disaster – designers from all over the globe did of course face many logistical challenges when putting together their collections this Fashion Month.

With big decisions from the likes of The British Fashion Council who moved the traditional menswear showcase from January to February in light of the pandemic, the usual fashion month calendar and spectacle became somewhat blurred. These restrictions did make way for some pretty big growth, with Fashion Month filled to the brim with catwalk shows, fashion films, performance art, panel talks and so much more.

AW21 Fashion Month 

With the door swung wide open for inclusivity and many creative boundaries pushed, here are 5 things we’re taking away from this AW21 Fashion Month…

  • Bold Beauty
  • Romanticism & Feminine Tailoring
  • Female Power
  • Hopeful Dressing
  • Wanderlust

#1 Bold Beauty.

AW21 Makeup Looks

Altuzarra, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, Versace, Giambattista Valli

In the words of Jeremy Scott, who took Old Hollywood Technicolor glamour to new heights with Moschino’s latest AW21 collection, “Comfort schmomfort! What we need now more than ever is fantasy and glamour and things that make you feel wonderful”.

That’s right, we saw many designers [see Altuzarra’s butterfly-esque faces & Versace’s neon colour-striped eyes] step their makeup game up a notch this Fashion Month, and we are certainly here for it.

AW21 makeup from Moschino

@kabukinyc – “#behindthescenes #fw2021 @moschino @itsjeremyscott @maccosmetics”

As restrictions begin to ease and we look towards the near future; it seems that delving into the right makeup – rather than our wardrobes – may just be the perfect way to yield the most powerful statements. Rich metallics, statement lips and winged liner – we’re coming for you.

Coggles loves…

#2 Romanticism & Feminine Tailoring.

AW21 Romanticism designers

Prabal Gurung, Marni

Unsurprisingly, the themes of tactility, intimacy, and romanticism featured amongst many designers this AW21 Fashion Month. Take Francesco Risso’s second lockdown collection for Marni for example, which took viewers on a quest to celebrate romance

Romanticism feels more powerful than any form of protest: a way to delve into reality with another gaze and another touch, finding another meaning to the everyday

 

aw21 romanticism from Erdem

‘Are Women Going to Stop Dressing Up? Not in Erdem’s World’ – Vogue Runway

Marni’s collection whimsically reimagined the sportswear and loungewear codes through a feminine lens, whilst Prabal Gurung’s ‘In The Mood For Love’ collection played with dreamy floral motifs, bright pink tailored two-pieces, ball-gowns and 80’s polka-dots. 

Coggles loves…

#3 Female Power! 

As feminine tailoring and bold romanticism crept into the game, female empowerment felt rife this Fashion Month; on both the runway and via our Instagram feeds.

This was championed explicitly from Dior’s AW21 collection, which was a celebration of female creativity from Maria Grazia Chiuri. The designer called on five female illustrators to create a series of animated teasers that were posted before the reveal of Chiuri’s fairytale-esque Dior collection.

aw21 dior and Proenza Schouler

Dior AW21, Ella Emhoff for Proenza Schouler AW21

Proenza Schouler also explored the power of femme as designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez explored a “complete wardrobe created to comfort, inspire, and empower the modern-day woman”.

The talk of this year’s New York Fashion Week was certainly that of Ella Emhoff (Vice President Kamala Harris’ step-daughter) who was the face of Proenza Schouler’s AW21 collection.

#4 Hopeful Dressing.

aw21 designers

Halpern, Erdem, Jil Sander

Proving that there is no challenge without growth – Fashion Month felt vibrant and alive this year, and we for one felt happier to wave goodbye to the politics and exclusivity of the front row.

We saw a wave of exuberant locations come through this Fashion Month, with Valentino temporarily reopening the Piccolo Teatro di Milano (which hasn’t seen life since the start of the pandemic) and Erdem virtually taking us to the front row of the Royal Ballet, filling us with hope for the year ahead.

Take Halpern’s AW21 collection for example; flooded with printed sequinned pieces, eccentric leopard prints, Sixties’ boots and sinuous tailoring; the collection was beautifully femme, beautifully big and beautifully bold;

That led me to design a collection for pure celebration of getting together once again; when we are able to be with one another and be merry. This is a collection rooted in optimism and the power of fashion

Coggles loves…

#5 Wanderlust. 

With a sense of hopefulness rife across all four cities, many designers took the opportunity to whisk their virtual audiences away to some pretty incredible locations and sets.

From Louis Vuitton whisking us to the galleries of the Louvre which featured a collaboration with Italian artistic design atelier Fornasetti, to the literal runway with Balmain – whose AW21 collection was inspired by the freedom and excitement of travelling, audiences across the globe were filled with a gleeful sense of wanderlust and left desperate for more.

aw21 wanderlust

Balmain, Emilio Pucci, Eudon Choi

Sunny even in the midst of winter, The Emilio Pucci team injected a playful sunny spirit into winter fashion with their St Tropez inspired collection and we even found ourselves at the “Swiss Alps” with Eudon Choi’s 1960’s inspired après ski looks.

We’ll take one holiday, please.

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Written by Ciara Martin



Ciara Martin

Ciara Martin

Writer and expert