If there’s one designer who best reworks the military theme season after season, it’s Kent-born Christopher Raeburn. This season at London Fashion Week Men’s, the Christopher Raeburn SS18 collection drew inspiration from Slavomir Rawicz’s The Long Walk, a tale of adventure and survival on a 4000-mile journey across desert and the Himalayas, from Siberia to India.
That military camouflage print made another appearance on shorts and jackets, this time in neutral tones suited to the desert. Following on the from the injections of neon green in the AW17 collection, bright orange could be found throughout SS18’s pieces – on long parkas and bags, and used for patchwork on light grey sweatpants and hoodies. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Christopher Raeburn collection without a bit of recycling and remaking; these macs, anoraks and jersey have been made out of pioneering materials, including pre-flown kites in collaboration with EXKITE.
What was a departure for Raeburn this season, was the use of tulle. Used to represent the notion and movement of desert wind, orange, black and grey tulle formed the basis of long-sleeved top, shorts and trousers – all edged in REMADE, REDUCED, RECYCLE, RAEBURN tape – as well as dresses in the womenswear offering.
Oh, and this season’s mascot? The jerboa, a desert rodent that came hopping across sweatshirts.
Words by Angharad Jones. Images courtesy of Christopher Raeburn