The Eudon Choi AW16 collection started out with muted pastel shades, with soft pinks and lilacs usually reserved for spring/summer found in fluid shirts and culottes, loose graphic-printed dresses and constructed, mannish suits. It then moved on to dark tailoring, with navy dresses featuring waterfall draping detail and impeccable suits with asymmetric fastenings worn with fur-covered loafers.
This loose tailoring continued with pleat-back shirts, cropped trousers, block-coloured coats and split-hem trousers; a look that was seen at the likes of rag & bone in New York and By Malene Birger in Copenhagen – and is one that we expect to see more of this season.
This contrasting use of colour, shapes, seams and hemlines stems from Choi’s inspiration found in abstract art – in particular, the work of artists Saloua Raouda Chouchair and Helen Frankenthaler. Soft shades offset the use of dark navy and burgundy; crisp shirts balanced out loose pink wool trousers; and bold graphic and floral prints provided a creative point of difference to the slightly androgynous, minimalist pieces.
Overall, this was a refreshing collection for autumn/winter and one that is so instantly wearable – after all, who says we can only wear pastels in spring?
Words by Angharad Jones