Taking place in the Serpentine Sackler Gallery, Belstaff’s evening AW14 presentation for the second night of LFW was a hotly anticipated affair. A brand best renowned for its excellent outerwear and tailoring techniques, the label developed a varied and considered offering for this season.
A motorsport theme was evident in both the styling and physical composition of the collection. Honouring the riders of the 1965 International Six Day Trial Race for their men’s collection, videos of helmets, runways and motorbikes also projected themselves onto blank walls at the female showing. Models rotated around the rectangular catwalk, pausing momentarily upon each floorlit square before continuing onwards, allowing opportunity to examine in detail.
Tailored leather was clearly the medium of choice as long sleeved asymmetric dresses were paired with versatile motorcycle boots. Knife pleats, ribbed knits with rolled necks and reimagined bomber jackets featured whilst waists dropped in sync with a newly lowered hemline. Oversized hardware, pockets and fur also came the fore, the same large fur gauntlet gloves that featured in the men’s collections accompanying each and every outfit.
Interestingly enough, it was the more subtle feminine additions which really seemed to pull the collection together – a harsh biker layered over a soft lightweight floral, individual pleating assisted by sheer black panelling and soft, sumptuous furs to finish. The four pocket jacket was given an update and Belstaff’s choice of high quality fabrics, leather, cotton and wool preserved the label’s luxurious aesthetic.
Where other brands could easily appear overly functional with the heavy duty coats and accessories that dominated this collection, Belstaff managed to create a series that was simultaneously pragmatic and desirable. It is this ability to reinvigorate the way we look at garments that firmly cements Belstaff on the list of our most-coveted brands into AW14.
Words by Olivia Cooley . Images by Alex Green