An empty former train workshop with Moët on tap provided the setting for the By Malene Birger SS16 show. Designed by Christina Exteen after Malene Birger’s departure from the company in 2014, this was a collection that took subtle influences from the ‘70s – showing that this is a trend that isn’t leaving in a hurry.
The first look to come down the runway was a rib knit two-piece; a long sleeved turtle neck with asymmetric hem and slightly flared trousers in light orange print. The two-piece was a look that continued throughout the show, in the form of light camel strapless tops and culottes; fitted tunics over wide leg trousers; long-length belted white and burgundy jackets over matching billowing trousers; and slouchy pyjama-style trousers with shirts edged in fringing.
Dresses came in floor-grazing lengths adorned with clusters of gold and silver embroidery, and midi styles with asymmetric hems and plunging necklines. The rib knit continued into the dresses, seen in light burgundy knee-length styles edged in a thin blue line. When trousers didn’t come loose, wide legged or flared, they came cropped and in the form of culottes – a draped white culotte jumpsuit was a stand-out piece for the minimalist woman.
This was a beautiful collection, with each piece being instantly wearable straight off the runway, and one that showed Exteen knows the By Malene Birger woman through and through.
Words by Angharad Jones. Images by Clare Potts